Hochtour Piz Palü am 06.&07.08.2021 (Junge Alpinisten Salzburg)

Difficult
24.7 km
13:00 h
2166 mhd
2162 mhd
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Impressive high ascent to the Piz Palü from the valley (Bernina Sud), overnight stay in the Diavolezza mountain house. Ascent and descent via the normal route and over the east summit to the main summit of Piz Palü (3900m). Good conditions, groomed with 30cm of fresh snow and stormy south foehn. This tour was supported by the Young Alpinists Salzburg.
Technique /6
Fitness 5/6
Highest Point  3897 m
Lowest Point  2043 m
Best Season
Jan
Feb
Mär
Apr
Mai
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Okt
Nov
Dez
Start
Bernina Sud Parking
Destination
Main summit Piz Palü
Coordinates
46.445248, 9.970093

Details

Description

Our rope team consisting of Julian, Tina and Mario will meet on 06.08.2022 at 2 pm in Pontresina, Engadine. We are financially supported by the Young Alpinists Salzburg. Here is our starting point for the high tour to the Piz Palü (3900m), more precisely from the parking lot Bernina Sud. From here we take varied hiking trails with heavy luggage to the Berghaus Diavolezza where we spend the night. After a sweaty ascent, we enjoyed the half-board with very good cuisine. After an urgent study of the weather and conditions on the mountain, we decided to go the normal way to the Piz Palü over the Pers Glacier tomorrow, with the option to cross all Palü peaks and descend over the Fortezza ridge.

The night in the camp at 3000m was not very relaxing, at 03.00 o'clock our alarm clock rang. Together with about 10 other rope teams we started at 04.30 o'clock in the night, the dawn welcomed us only at the glacier at 05.30 o'clock. A very sunny morning accompanied us through the crevasses to the eastern shoulder. Only there on the ridge we felt the strong south foehn, which pushed cloud mountains from the south to the mountain. We were about 200m above the cloud line and could climb towards the summit. Around 10.30 a.m. we reached the main summit and decided to descend the normal route due to the gusty Südföhn and to refrain from crossing. After a relaxed descent we went back to a short detour to the Diavolezza hut and then with the cable car downhill. At 6 pm we reached the valley in the rain and checked in at the nearby campsite Morteratsch to sleep in. After a leisurely breakfast the next day we went back home.

Geheimtipp

Early start from the hut to walk for a long time in the shade on the ascent.

Sicherheitshinweis

High concentration and absolute head for heights are necessary on the very exposed firngrate.

Ausrüstung

Complete high-speed equipment.

Directions

High tour to the Piz Palü from the valley (Bernina Sud), overnight in the Diavolezza mountain house. Ascent and descent via the normal route and over the east summit to the main summit of Piz Palü (3900m).

Directions

Public Transport

By train to Bernina Sud.

Parking

Bernina Sud, free parking

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