Piz Palü Ostpfeiler

Difficult
11.3 km
6:35 h
1457 mhd
1516 mhd
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High tour over east pillars to the Piz Palü
Technique /6
Fitness 4/6
Highest Point  3891 m
Lowest Point  2959 m
Best Season
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Start
Diavolezza valley station / Diavolezza mountain station / bivouac place at Piz Trovat
Destination
Piz Palü East Summit
Coordinates
46.402915, 9.974393

Details

Description

Recorded tour

Saturday, August 1, 2020, 03:36

Distance: 11.3 km
Total time: 8 hours
Time on the move: 6 hours

Total speed: 1.3 km/h
Speed in motion: 6.1 km/h
Speed max.: 10.2 km/h

Ascent: 950 m
Descent: 950 m
Lowest point: 2,959 m
Highest point: 3,900 m

Ausrüstung

4 Friends: 0.75-2 (1 double)

half set of wedges

5 ice screws

3 Köpferlschlingerl

good pimples and crampons

1 floor useful

Directions

Ascent to the pillar:

to the mountain station Diavolezza about 1.5h at a brisk pace. In the hotel you can get water if you ask nice (about 3 minutes detour); with e-bike approx. 400hm possible.

further left Piz Travot in the slight up and down (about 50hm) to the bivouac places (about 15 places)

down either to the east via light BLockwerk or directly down to the glacier via steep path from the bivouac sites. 1. Variant better.

Glaciers along the rock cross to the steep upswing, this in serpentines high, until you have either passed the largest part of the glacier or completely.

Then cross to the entrance of the pillar. Cave: Crevices and edge gap

pier:

most approx. UIAA 2-3, digits IV

Entrance about 3 about 30hm with a few drill hoes until you get to ridge.

Securing by means of a running rope is possible. Always stay on a direct line.

Large gendarme after 2/3 directly about UIAA 6 (very heavy for small people), but there are some punches; Environment left around UIAA 5-

Then again 2er terrain, we were then rope-free, well feasible.

Firngrat:

45°; Exit 50°, can be tricky with bare ice

100-150hm

descent:

150hm narrow ridge and steep slope. Cave columns. Rope-free due to fall overweighing.

Then curve more comfortably in a pleasant incline through the crevices; many deep crevices; with rope.

Back on ascent track and then to the bivouac place again about 30hm ascent.

Directions

Public Transport

By train to Diavolezza valley station

Parking

Free at Diavolezza valley station

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