Piz Palü & Piz Bernina

3.Day tour

Day 1: Ascent from Diavolezza valley station via marked hiking trail to the Diavolezza mountain station Time: approx. 2.5 hours (alternatively, the cable car can also be used for the ascent). Overnight at the Diavolezza mountain station.

Facts Day 1: 2.5 hours,
880hm normal hiking trail

Day 2: After breakfast (possibly from 03:30) Ascent first left past Piz Trovat towards the saddle "Fuorcla Trovat". Descend here to the glacier and follow the normal path to the Piz Palü east summit at the glacier. If you want to take the east ridge with you (not to be confused with east pillar!) you have to climb the steep firn wall 45-50° to Fuorcla Pers-Palü. Then climb the ridge over rock and firn cutting. Key points are once in the rock before the Firngrat of the east ridge sets up again. This rock spot is not difficult to climb but the wayfinding is not easy (many variants possible) We are first straight up over the rock ridge and then followed to the right a band that flows into a small firn channel which is climbed up briefly and is left over rock terrain until you are back on the ridge (see photo). 2 key point is the last steep firn wall / ridge which stands up again 50°. Tip for the east ridge take a second pimple/ice machine per person and possibly. a few medium friends for the rock passages (there are no fixed safety points in the entire ridge). The firn climbing passages should best be walked rope-free because a belay here is difficult (sometimes you have been able to put an ice screw, sometimes begging over totenmann with pimple) the east ridge flows flat to the normal path of the Pizpalü normal way. from here it is not difficult to follow the entire ridge of Piz Palü to Piz Spinaz (Piz Palü west summit) here you have to be patiently climbed again over light rocky terrain best without crampons always on the ridge. Once comes a place in the 3rd ridge which has to be climbed briefly or abseiled (max 5m). The rocky ridge of the Piz Spinaz runs flat until you arrive back at the flat glacier of the Bellavista. Here unspectacularly follow the glacier towards Marco e Rosa Hut. it has to be climbed again on the glacier a few meters of altitude so that you reach the "basin" in which the Refugio Marco e Rosa is located. From here it gets exciting again because you have to cross some crevasses and bridges here. You can already see the hut from afar. Overnight at the hut.

Facts Day 3: 11h 1,000m, 2nd-3rd UIAA degrees, 50° Firn

Day 3 Breakfast from 05:00. Then ascent over slowly rising firn field to the Spallagrat. The firn field merges into a firn wall (about 40°) always keep to the left until the firn wall flows into the rock. here do not climb up the striking intersection but pass the rock on the right where there is a stand. here alternately climb the ridge over rock and firn passages until you reach the summit. Descent takes place again over the ridge where you can abseil the most difficult rock passages well with a 50m. the last abseiler is made via the striking intersection at the entrance of the ridge. There are sufficient abseiling distances along the entire ridge.
Then follow the whole ascent back to the Bellavista corner and then turn left to the Foretzzagrat. Descend this via abseiling and descending and then decide whether you want to climb to the Diavolezza mountain station or the beautiful round trip over the Morteratsch glacier towards Morteratsch, the last part over fantastically beautiful flat hiking trail wants to end. Directly at the exit of the valley there is a train station. By train you can take one station back to the Diavolezza mountain station (about 5 Fr.).

Facts Day 3: 500 HM Austeig, 2.000 HM descent. 3.Grat UIAA, 40° Grat Firn, approx. 12 hours