Door het Berninagebied 2014

Traversing under the Bernina.

The trip was early In July with plenty of snow on the higher parts. In the morning required slopes. This made the trip medium to fairly difficult also because the routes in the middle part (Rif. Forno-Longoni and Marinelli) are long and the necessary height meters must be made. From Marinelli to Marco e Rosa you have to climb a couloir of 55 degrees snow / ice and on half you can enter a climbing trail that is secured with chains. Difficult entry and the space between steps / steps is quite large. Beautiful glacier tour under BellaVista along to Fortezza. There enough fuse points and an abseil (with 1 between relays) to get to Vadret de la Fortezza.

We spend the night in youth hostel Pontresinna is fine. By bus to Maloja and there to the first hut Rifugio Cap. Del Forno. Easy to walk path. Clear markings but only on the path over the glacier was (is?) blocked. Therefore, after the bridge over the glacier stream, follow the marker that leads you in and over the rocks.

Then to Rifugio Longoni. Long route first over rock and the joch "Sella del Forno" then through forest and thickets. Path hard to find and much overgrown. You have to follow it to be able to pass the various streams. Last part again climb to the Rifugo. The last part again clear marking.

Next day directly behind the hut through the chimney up (ask the host) to a height path that eventually follows a healing (kind of balcony). Further (at 2650 meters) no markings so on the map walk to the joch Forcella d'Entova. Descend until you reach the glacier stream (course Cimitero delgli Alpini and at the stream the direction signs) and then to the north (follow the markings here) until you reach the bridge. Over this into the blocks of terrain (very tiring) and the marking (and cairns) continue to follow. Eventually you climb again where you have to go through a secured (wire steep) scissors just in front of the hut (you don't see it). Coming from there is the hut on the left.

The next day direction Marco e Rosa past Passo Martinelli over Vedretta di Screrscen Superiori. Beautiful and simple route (glacier) to the couloir. You see the Rifugio but you're not there yet. This is a tricky very steep ascent (55 degrees snow/ice) constantly traversing. On the half the glettersteig in left to the rocks. In the end, the hut is on the left. You can't miss it.

The next day early on and under the BellaVista along. At some point you have to descend north to Fortezza. There the exposed rocks in and continuously securing (many drill hooks) along the rocks descend to a rocky point where you wonder; "what next?". So orient yourself well at home. Here an abseil (the rings are on the rocky outcrop) and with a (1) between relays to the large snowfield of Isla Persa. Cross and find and follow the cairns to Vadret Pers. Find your way and cross Vadretta Moteratsch and go to the Boval Hutte.