Rennrad: Julierpass, Albulapass, Berninapass

The Engadin is not only a first address for cyclists and hikers. Both can be combined with impressive cultural experiences. Names such as those of the painter Segantini, the philosopher Nietzsche or the author Schwarzenbach stand for this. And on the Julier Pass there is still this red theatre, created according to an idea of the artist, theatre director and intendaten and Giovanni Netzer, who comes from Savognin north of the Julierpasshöhe. Hikes around the three passes, which offer numerous scenic beauties, are recommended.

Literature tips about the Engadin and its culture? Recommended is the book by Ruth Michel Richter and Konrad Richter, "Wandern wie gemalt, Graubünden". First published in 2014. On their hikes, the authors follow in the footsteps of well-known artists from Segantini to Dix to Hodler, for whom Graubünden and the Engadine were a special artistic station. To prepare for bike rides, the book is a stimulating and equally informative read. 

Switzerland, all well signposted in a proven way. That makes directions easy. Especially since the tour leads over well-known Swiss passes. We decide to start in Maloja. This makes the tour considerably longer, the starting point is admittedly due to the "weakness" of the author for idiosyncratic and equally outstanding artists such as Giovanni Segantini (1858 to 1899). But Maloja - promised, this comparatively almost lonely place is worth it. Segantini spent the last years of his life in Maloja. That's where we start. After about 18 kilometers, the Julier Pass (2284 meters) is already reached via Silvaplana. A long, over 30 kilometers long descent to Tiefencastel, which is below 900 meters above sea level (the lowest point of the tour) we have in front of us. 

Then it goes up into the lonely landscape of the Albula Pass (2312 meters). There are almost 1500 meters of altitude difference to overcome on cira 30 kilometers. In the middle part, the slope briefly reaches 15 percent. The author of these lines has driven the Stilfserjoch (2757 meters) from the South Tyrolean side several times. The Albula has slightly less altitude difference, but it is also less winding, more toxic overall. As the "second pass" of a tour: It is recommended to approach this considerable ascent with respect. 

After about 85 kilometers, the pass is reached in a lonely, rugged landscape. A major highlight during the journey was the spectacular route of the Rhaetian Railway in its viaducts, built since the beginning of the 20th century, through an almost wild mountain valley. If you should run out of breath after the Albula, you can cycle straight to the southwest at the Albula valley village of La Punt at an altitude of 1687 meters on the southern Engadine side and via Samedan and St. Moritz (in the area of these places unfortunately the transport is piling up and the only partially asphalted cycle paths next to the road are rather "suboptimal" for road cyclists) directly to the starting point Maloja. This would shorten the tour by around 40 kilometres and a good 700 metres in altitude. Admittedly, the author of these lines also thought about it briefly. But then he picked himself up again. So head towards Pontresina and Bernina Pass (with 2330 meters the "roof" of the tour). A local cyclist recommends to the writer of these lines a cycle path from Samedan southwest of the main road towards Pontresina. Well. In the end, you are glad that you have not hit a flat foot on the unpaved track. Then over Pontresina up to the overall surprisingly quiet Bernina Pass (2330 meters). On the right, the mountains of the Berina Group (up to 4049 meters high, the highest mountains of the Eastern Alps). Quite simply: It's great without ifs and buts! Enjoy this sight (even if the legendary Morteratsch Glacier is now in a worrying state of shrinkage). From the Bernina Pass it is then another 40 kilometers "home", to Maloja. Until Silvaplana unfortunately quite busy and the cycle path has here, in the "Veloland" Switzerland, let's say, still room for improvement. But what the heck... After these passes and these great impressions, you roll the finale relaxed "just through" and the view of the Silvaplana and the Silser See still has some beauty in store.